WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS

WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashion store. Today we are going to talk about cashmere.

What is cashmere? Cashmere is the underdown shed annually by goats living in the high, dry plateaus surrounding the Gobi Desert, which stretch from Northern China into Mongolia. These goats have a coarse outer hair that repels the weather. Under that outer coat lies a much finer fiber, cashmere, which insulates these animals from the bitter cold.

Why is cashmere so expensive? The harsh geography of this area of the Gobi Desert supports a very limited number of goats. It takes one of these rare goats four years to grow enough cashmere for one sweater. Each goat is combed by hand every spring. Then the fleece is collected and sorted by hand. Cashmere sweaters are usually knit on hand-operated machines. Therefore, the scarcity of the fiber and the handwork required to convert that fiber into a luxurious garment both contribute to cashmere’s price.

Why do similar looking sweaters have very different prices? There are significant differences in the quality of cashmere, and therefore, the price of the fiber that can be used in a cashmere garment. There are variations in the fineness of the cashmere from various origins. There are also more subtle variations within origins. Finer cashmere is more expensive than coarser cashmere. Color also plays a role. The whiter, more expensive fiber needs less dye to color it. Dying harms the feel of the cashmere so this is important. Cashmere fiber is also priced by its length. Longer fiber is more expensive because it makes stronger yarn that pills less. All of these variables play a role in the cost variation between seemingly similar garments. Usually you get what you pay for. top

How do I tell a good cashmere sweater from a poor one? Your fingers are very good judges. If a cashmere sweater doesn’t feel smooth, soft and luxurious, don’t buy it. The other critical factor is density/weight. Pull the sides of the sweater apart and then let them go. The sweater should snap back to its original shape. Loosely knit, limp fabric is the hallmark of a cheaply made sweater. A good sweater should feel hefty and substantial even if it is lightweight.

How do I care for a cashmere sweater? Threat your cashmere like your hair. Gently wash it in warm water with a mild soap (shampoo will do). Block it out on a towel to shape and let it dry. Dry cleaning may be the only answer for stubborn stains. top

Is two ply yarn best? If you cut a piece of yarn off a ball and hold the two ends together, the yarn will wrap around itself because of the torque created during the spinning process. In a single-ply garment this torque may translate into a bias in the fabric. Two ply is better than one because the ply twist in the opposite direction offsets the torque inherent in a singles yarn. Two ply yarn is also more even because the thick and thin paces tend to average out. But that is as far as it goes. Further plies add no additional quality. Sweater designers use additional plies to add weight and color options.

What are the differences between European and Asian made cashmere sweaters? The world’s cashmere comes from China and to a lesser extent Mongolia. So the source of the fiber is the same. Chinese garments have the highest level of handwork and because the labor cost is relatively low, these garments usually have good value. European garments have exceptional style and color, which offsets their higher price. top

What causes pilling? Pilling is caused by the abrasion of short fibers into small balls on the surface of the fabric. Some pilling will occur in most new sweaters, especially those worn under other garments. But the problem will not persist in a good garment after the first cleaning. Persistent pilling is the result of a high percentage of short fibers combined with a loosely knit fabric. Lower quality manufacturers use shorter fiber because it is cheaper. They also knit loosely to keep the weight of the garment and thus the amount of cashmere used to a minimum. To make these low quality garments feel better, they are produced with a significant amount of surface fiber. This fuzzy surface is initially pleasing to the touch, but signifies long term pilling problems.

Why do lighter sweaters feel softer than darker ones? Dying harms the feel of all natural fibers. Most Chinese cashmere is naturally white. So it takes more dying to convert it inot a darker shade. Experienced producers can minimize but not eliminate the difference in "handle" between lights and darks.

How long will a cashmere sweater last? That depends on he quality and how it is worn. Generally speaking more expensive sweaters will last longer than less expensive sweaters. Under normal wear circumstances a well-made cashmere sweater should last many years.