WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store. This article was taken from theguidetomenssuits.com.
Baroni Suits
Baroni suits are classic Italian made suits that come in a wide variety of styles. These can be compared to other mid range suits like Zanelli and Manzoni.
Style
Classic cuts with standard size shoulders and vented backs. Window pane, solids, and stripes add to 2 and 3 button models.
Quick Tip
Look for models with higher underarms to avoid your shoulders being lifted up when you raise your hands.
Material
Super 150s make these suits both comfortable and luxurious. The quality of the material is without a doubt the best feature of this brand.
Color
Navy blue, black, and charcoal gray lend to the more traditional wearer while beige, olive, and tans give the riskier suit purchaser some options.
Price
Don't pay more than $500 for this suit. Some retailers will try to validate an $800 price tag with the finely spun wool, but shop around and you'll find better.
Conclusion
A nice addition to the under $500 purchaser looking for quality material and well rounded styling.
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Monday, March 30, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store. This article was taken from theguideformenssuits.com.
Austin Reed Suits:
Austin Reed suits are a British classic. Both affordable and stylish; this designer has a very nice balance.
This brand has been around for over 100 years and although the original designer is no longer around his name lives on through his company.
Elegant cuts with classic styling make this a great design for the clothing enthusiast with a lust for traditional garb. Look for their signature line for a higher end material and stitch.
Jackets - Two and three button models with classic cuts. Lapels are moderate size surrounded by flap pockets on bottom.
Pants - You can find them pleated or flat fronted with a traditional fit.
Materials run through the spectrum in wool, cotton, and linen. Luxury models will have a higher grade wool than the lesser models.
Prices vary depending on model and newness. Expect to see retail prices in the $200 - $300 range.
This company makes great traditional British style suits at a very affordable price point. Buy this online and you'll have a nice multi purpose suit for less than a months cost in gas.
Austin Reed Suits:
Austin Reed suits are a British classic. Both affordable and stylish; this designer has a very nice balance.
This brand has been around for over 100 years and although the original designer is no longer around his name lives on through his company.
Elegant cuts with classic styling make this a great design for the clothing enthusiast with a lust for traditional garb. Look for their signature line for a higher end material and stitch.
Jackets - Two and three button models with classic cuts. Lapels are moderate size surrounded by flap pockets on bottom.
Pants - You can find them pleated or flat fronted with a traditional fit.
Materials run through the spectrum in wool, cotton, and linen. Luxury models will have a higher grade wool than the lesser models.
Prices vary depending on model and newness. Expect to see retail prices in the $200 - $300 range.
This company makes great traditional British style suits at a very affordable price point. Buy this online and you'll have a nice multi purpose suit for less than a months cost in gas.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store. This article was taken from theguidetomenssuits.com.
Attolini Suits
Introduction
Cesare Attolini suits are brought to us from master tailors in Italy. The finest fabrics are used exclusively from the private mills of the Attolini family.
Style
Attention to detail is very high making these suits similar to what you might find from Kiton and Brioni. All suits are hand stitched with handpicked detailing. Look for slightly wider lapels and slimmer waists.
Material
Materials used range from heavy to light wools, with cotton, and linen thrown into the mix. The wide range of materials used provides for a nice diverse line.
Color
Look for classic and contemporary colors. Some resourcefulness will be needed to find some of the trendier colors in stock.
Price
Retail price will run you somewhere in the neighborhood of $5,000.00. Look to realistically pay between $1,000 - $3,000.
Conclusion
This suit is a nice alternative to some of the more popular hand stitched suits on the market.
Attolini Suits
Introduction
Cesare Attolini suits are brought to us from master tailors in Italy. The finest fabrics are used exclusively from the private mills of the Attolini family.
Style
Attention to detail is very high making these suits similar to what you might find from Kiton and Brioni. All suits are hand stitched with handpicked detailing. Look for slightly wider lapels and slimmer waists.
Material
Materials used range from heavy to light wools, with cotton, and linen thrown into the mix. The wide range of materials used provides for a nice diverse line.
Color
Look for classic and contemporary colors. Some resourcefulness will be needed to find some of the trendier colors in stock.
Price
Retail price will run you somewhere in the neighborhood of $5,000.00. Look to realistically pay between $1,000 - $3,000.
Conclusion
This suit is a nice alternative to some of the more popular hand stitched suits on the market.
Friday, March 27, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store. This article was taken from theguidetomenssuits.com.
Arnold Brant Suits
Introduction
Arnold Brant suits are classics straight from Canada tailors. These luxury models can be found from well over 200 vendors.
Style
Cuts and styles are the best qualities on these suits. Look for two and three button models with both flat front and pleated pant styles.
Material
Fabrics are mid range quality with fully canvassed inner linings. Look for both worsted and heavier yet bulkier wools.
Color
Pinstripes, windowpanes, solids, and plaids give the large color selection another touch of spice. Look for both bright and solemn color shades.
Price
Retail for these models range between $300 and $500, but with the high competition between vendors you should pay around $200 to $250.
Conclusion
Men will find a large selection of styles and cuts but don't expect a lot of amenities or fancy details.
Arnold Brant Suits
Introduction
Arnold Brant suits are classics straight from Canada tailors. These luxury models can be found from well over 200 vendors.
Style
Cuts and styles are the best qualities on these suits. Look for two and three button models with both flat front and pleated pant styles.
Material
Fabrics are mid range quality with fully canvassed inner linings. Look for both worsted and heavier yet bulkier wools.
Color
Pinstripes, windowpanes, solids, and plaids give the large color selection another touch of spice. Look for both bright and solemn color shades.
Price
Retail for these models range between $300 and $500, but with the high competition between vendors you should pay around $200 to $250.
Conclusion
Men will find a large selection of styles and cuts but don't expect a lot of amenities or fancy details.
Thursday, March 26, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store. This article was taken from theguidetomenssuits.com.
Giorgio Armani's Armani suits have made this man famous indeed. Giorgio does have a full collection of clothing these days(see armani exchange) but what people really know him for are his designer suits.
Italian born and raised Giorgio is renowned for making (you guessed it) Italian suits. However, if you take a look at his collection you will notice that they do not all go with the classic Italian style look.
Giorgio likes to mix things up and makes his designs in robust double breasted makes, powerful British style 2 piece suits, and even the more relaxed American sac style suits.
You won't find anything in polyester from this brand. Look for high quality super 100's and other high end materials.
Colors are mostly traditional and elegant with rare variations of bold hues.
These suits can sometimes go for well over $1,000.00. This price is a combination of great quality and materials combined with name brand inflation.
If your looking to make a fashion statement while looking wealthy at the same time, go ahead and pick up one of these designs.
Giorgio Armani's Armani suits have made this man famous indeed. Giorgio does have a full collection of clothing these days(see armani exchange) but what people really know him for are his designer suits.
Italian born and raised Giorgio is renowned for making (you guessed it) Italian suits. However, if you take a look at his collection you will notice that they do not all go with the classic Italian style look.
Giorgio likes to mix things up and makes his designs in robust double breasted makes, powerful British style 2 piece suits, and even the more relaxed American sac style suits.
You won't find anything in polyester from this brand. Look for high quality super 100's and other high end materials.
Colors are mostly traditional and elegant with rare variations of bold hues.
These suits can sometimes go for well over $1,000.00. This price is a combination of great quality and materials combined with name brand inflation.
If your looking to make a fashion statement while looking wealthy at the same time, go ahead and pick up one of these designs.
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store. This article was taken from theguidetomenssuits.com.
ASG
Allyn Saint George is an American suit designer. He makes great affordable made to wear garments most would be proud to wear.
History
These designs have already been around for a few decades. The typical ASG wearer is price sensitive, which has kept this brand from gaining die hard loyalty and brand exposure.
Style
Styling is ultra conservative and perfect for interviews and office jobs. Buy these suits in bulk as your favorite work wear.
Materials
Materials used are always wool with nylon shelling on the inside. The prices may be low but you can easily find jackets that are fully lined.
Colors
Colors do not vary greatly. However, you will find all the traditional colors such as black, blue, brown, and gray.
Price
Look to pay around $200.00 retail for a new model. Online retailers tend to carry this lineup more than some of the other American brands.
Conclusion
This is a great suit for the man on a budget but don't expect to look fancy in it. Buy this suit if you're looking for a cost effective work uniform.
ASG
Allyn Saint George is an American suit designer. He makes great affordable made to wear garments most would be proud to wear.
History
These designs have already been around for a few decades. The typical ASG wearer is price sensitive, which has kept this brand from gaining die hard loyalty and brand exposure.
Style
Styling is ultra conservative and perfect for interviews and office jobs. Buy these suits in bulk as your favorite work wear.
Materials
Materials used are always wool with nylon shelling on the inside. The prices may be low but you can easily find jackets that are fully lined.
Colors
Colors do not vary greatly. However, you will find all the traditional colors such as black, blue, brown, and gray.
Price
Look to pay around $200.00 retail for a new model. Online retailers tend to carry this lineup more than some of the other American brands.
Conclusion
This is a great suit for the man on a budget but don't expect to look fancy in it. Buy this suit if you're looking for a cost effective work uniform.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store. This article was taken from theguideformenssuits.com.
Designer suits are made around the world by a large magnitude of suit designers. These suits change from year to year and can be tricky to buy. To make things more complicated, these suits can be found in many different: styles, materials and colors. I have done my best to provide quick designer suit reviews on as many suit brands as possible. Below you will find an ever growing list of suits - listed in alphabetical order for your convenience.
A
Alfani
The Alfani suit is a classic found at Macy's brick and mortar locations and multiple online retailers. This suit was created to please bargain shoppers looking for something fashionable yet conservative.
Style
You'll find a wide selection of two and three piece classics with mid range lapel sizes. Three button is much more common than two button but you will be able to find the latter if it suits you better.
Material
Material is usually wool with a spin of around super 100's or better. Quality for this suit isn't considered luxury or cheap either.
Color
You won't find anything over the top in this collection. However, blacks, blues, grays, and tans are available on most models.
Price
Price ranges from $200 to $500 retail, but I have yet to see a list price of over $400.
Conclusion
Men looking for some decent cuts and stitches for a reasonable price should consider this designer. Look for something a little more expensive if you want high quality materials.
Designer suits are made around the world by a large magnitude of suit designers. These suits change from year to year and can be tricky to buy. To make things more complicated, these suits can be found in many different: styles, materials and colors. I have done my best to provide quick designer suit reviews on as many suit brands as possible. Below you will find an ever growing list of suits - listed in alphabetical order for your convenience.
A
Alfani
The Alfani suit is a classic found at Macy's brick and mortar locations and multiple online retailers. This suit was created to please bargain shoppers looking for something fashionable yet conservative.
Style
You'll find a wide selection of two and three piece classics with mid range lapel sizes. Three button is much more common than two button but you will be able to find the latter if it suits you better.
Material
Material is usually wool with a spin of around super 100's or better. Quality for this suit isn't considered luxury or cheap either.
Color
You won't find anything over the top in this collection. However, blacks, blues, grays, and tans are available on most models.
Price
Price ranges from $200 to $500 retail, but I have yet to see a list price of over $400.
Conclusion
Men looking for some decent cuts and stitches for a reasonable price should consider this designer. Look for something a little more expensive if you want high quality materials.
Monday, March 23, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store. This article was taken from the guidetomenssuits.com
Knowing how essential a power suit can be to your career is a good start to choosing, buying, and wearing a power suit. In order to complete the process you will need to know exactly what a power suit really is.
This article will give you specific details on the power suit. You will learn about the style and color of the suit as well as the accessories that should be used in conjunction with the suit.
The color navy blue is the most powerful color in the world of business and politics. This is the color you will choose when creating your power suit. Rest easy, this color will go with all skin shades and body types.
Patterns on a power suit should always be white or black pinstripe. This pattern on a blue suit puts off a more authoritative look than any other combination in creation. For this reason many people will wear this suit when they are giving speeches or holding the dreaded Monday morning meetings.
Wear a nondescript white dress shirt underneath your jacket. This shirt should not have any distracting patterns or colors to diminish the affect of your suit or "power tie". You can change your power suit into everyday work or leisure wear by changing the shirt and tie later.
Ties worn in conjunction with the power suit are known as power ties. These ties do not have to be one solid color, but they do need to have some red in them. For instance you could have a dark red tie with square patterns and silver outlines.
The color of your dress shoes must be black. Patterns should be non-existent and the shoe should lace up. Use this style in combination with a high sheen and you will be wearing the most formal shoes in creation.
Knowing how essential a power suit can be to your career is a good start to choosing, buying, and wearing a power suit. In order to complete the process you will need to know exactly what a power suit really is.
This article will give you specific details on the power suit. You will learn about the style and color of the suit as well as the accessories that should be used in conjunction with the suit.
The color navy blue is the most powerful color in the world of business and politics. This is the color you will choose when creating your power suit. Rest easy, this color will go with all skin shades and body types.
Patterns on a power suit should always be white or black pinstripe. This pattern on a blue suit puts off a more authoritative look than any other combination in creation. For this reason many people will wear this suit when they are giving speeches or holding the dreaded Monday morning meetings.
Wear a nondescript white dress shirt underneath your jacket. This shirt should not have any distracting patterns or colors to diminish the affect of your suit or "power tie". You can change your power suit into everyday work or leisure wear by changing the shirt and tie later.
Ties worn in conjunction with the power suit are known as power ties. These ties do not have to be one solid color, but they do need to have some red in them. For instance you could have a dark red tie with square patterns and silver outlines.
The color of your dress shoes must be black. Patterns should be non-existent and the shoe should lace up. Use this style in combination with a high sheen and you will be wearing the most formal shoes in creation.
Sunday, March 22, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your online mens fashions store. This is article was taken from theguidetomensuits.com.
"A man is defined by what he wears."
- Ralph Bishop
Your business suit is all about one thing. How you are perceived by all those with whom you come into contact during the course of your business dealings.
Obviously, your abilities, records and achievements in your business dealings are the major factor, but without a good suit it can sometimes be tremendously difficult to take someone seriously.
There are going to be occasions when someone is known famously in their business circle for being a real shabby dresser. There are, and will always be heads of large corporations who arrive for work each day in jeans and t-shirt, but they are the exception rather than the rule.
A man who is dressed very smart and fashionable will always be taken seriously. It gives you a head start because it’s assumed you take as much pride in your work as your appearance.
Sadly, in the upper echelons of business, a decent suit is not always enough. Here you need to be looking at the top designer labels. These will always be noticed and recognized. If you are submitting a proposal to the board of your prospective clients wearing a nice, well fitted top designer suit you will look “the part” and those listening will automatically assume you know what you are talking about.
Of course, you also DO have to know what you are talking about, which is implied. However, wearing a latest designer suit adds tremendous weight to your words.
Imagine if the roles were reversed and you were sitting meeting the representative of a company who wished to sell to you. Without giving it too much thought, if he is dressed in a cheap suit you will instantly have a reduced perception of, not only him, but his proposal and the company he represents.
This may sound a little shallow, but it is a cold fact of life. Psychologists will tell you that forming a first impression is inevitable. And first impressions really do count. How many times have we formed an opinion of someone simply because of the way they look, only to later discover that you were wrong. Don’t ever allow that to happen to you. Always wear the best and most fashionable business suit you can. Create a great first impression….sometimes you may not have a second chance.
"A man is defined by what he wears."
- Ralph Bishop
Your business suit is all about one thing. How you are perceived by all those with whom you come into contact during the course of your business dealings.
Obviously, your abilities, records and achievements in your business dealings are the major factor, but without a good suit it can sometimes be tremendously difficult to take someone seriously.
There are going to be occasions when someone is known famously in their business circle for being a real shabby dresser. There are, and will always be heads of large corporations who arrive for work each day in jeans and t-shirt, but they are the exception rather than the rule.
A man who is dressed very smart and fashionable will always be taken seriously. It gives you a head start because it’s assumed you take as much pride in your work as your appearance.
Sadly, in the upper echelons of business, a decent suit is not always enough. Here you need to be looking at the top designer labels. These will always be noticed and recognized. If you are submitting a proposal to the board of your prospective clients wearing a nice, well fitted top designer suit you will look “the part” and those listening will automatically assume you know what you are talking about.
Of course, you also DO have to know what you are talking about, which is implied. However, wearing a latest designer suit adds tremendous weight to your words.
Imagine if the roles were reversed and you were sitting meeting the representative of a company who wished to sell to you. Without giving it too much thought, if he is dressed in a cheap suit you will instantly have a reduced perception of, not only him, but his proposal and the company he represents.
This may sound a little shallow, but it is a cold fact of life. Psychologists will tell you that forming a first impression is inevitable. And first impressions really do count. How many times have we formed an opinion of someone simply because of the way they look, only to later discover that you were wrong. Don’t ever allow that to happen to you. Always wear the best and most fashionable business suit you can. Create a great first impression….sometimes you may not have a second chance.
Saturday, March 21, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store. This article was taken from the guide to men suits.
Mens suits...business, disco, designer, vintage, church, casual, leisure, and the list goes on and on. How does anybody ever know what suit to wear?
Once you've figured out which ones apply to you and when to wear them, you then have a million other options to decide on.
* What color should I choose?
* Which fabric is best?
* Which brand do I need?
* What size am I?
* What can I wear with it?
* What must I wear with it?
I wrote this website on mens suits to try and make things easier on both the novice and experienced buyer.
Mens suits...business, disco, designer, vintage, church, casual, leisure, and the list goes on and on. How does anybody ever know what suit to wear?
Once you've figured out which ones apply to you and when to wear them, you then have a million other options to decide on.
* What color should I choose?
* Which fabric is best?
* Which brand do I need?
* What size am I?
* What can I wear with it?
* What must I wear with it?
I wrote this website on mens suits to try and make things easier on both the novice and experienced buyer.
Friday, March 20, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store.
FABRIC IDENTIFICATION
Burn Test - CAUTION. WARNING. BE CAREFUL! This should only be done by skilled burners! Make sure there is a bucket of water nearby and that you burn in a metal bucket or non-plastic sink.
To identify fabric that is unknown, a simple burn test can be done to determine if the fabric is a natural fiber, man made fiber, or a blend of natural and man made fibers. The burn test is used by many fabric stores and designers and takes practice to determine the exact fiber content. However, an inexperienced person can still determine the difference between many fibers to "narrow" the choices down to natural or man made fibers. This elimination process will give information necessary to decide the care of the fabric.
WARNING: All fibers will burn! Asbestos treated fibers are, for the most part fire proof. The burning test should be done with caution. Use a small piece of fabric only. Hold the fabric with tweezers, not your fingers. Burn over a metal dish with soda in the bottom or even water in the bottom of the dish. Some fabrics will ignite and melt. The result is burning drips which can adhere to fabric or skin and cause a serious burn.
Cotton is a plant fiber. When ignited it burns with a steady flame and smells like burning leaves. The ash left is easily crumbled. Small samples of burning cotton can be blown out as you would a candle.
Linen is also a plant fiber but different from cotton in that the individual plant fibers which make up the yarn are long where cotton fibers are short. Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric closest to the ash is very brittle. Linen is easily extinguished by blowing on it as you would a candle.
Silk is a protein fiber and usually burns readily, not necessarily with a steady flame, and smells like burning hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily extinguished as cotton or linen.
Wool is also a protein fiber but is harder to ignite than silk as the individual "hair" fibers are shorter than silk and the weave of the fabrics is generally looser than with silk. The flame is steady but more difficult to keep burning. The smell of burning wool is like burning hair.
Man Made Fibers
Acetate is made from cellulose (wood fibers), technically cellulose acetate. Acetate burns readily with a flickering flame that cannot be easily extinguished. The burning cellulose drips and leaves a hard ash. The smell is similar to burning wood chips.
Acrylic technically acrylonitrile is made from natural gas and petroleum. Acrylics burn readily due to the fiber content and the lofty, air filled pockets. A match or cigarette dropped on an acrylic blanket can ignite the fabric which will burn rapidly unless extinguished. The ash is hard. The smell is acrid or harsh.
Nylon is a polyamide made from petroleum. Nylon melts and then burns rapidly if the flame remains on the melted fiber. If you can keep the flame on the melting nylon, it smells like burning plastic.
Polyester is a polymer produced from coal, air, water, and petroleum products. Polyester melts and burns at the same time, the melting, burning ash can bond quickly to any surface it drips on including skin. The smoke from polyester is black with a sweetish smell. The extinguished ash is hard.
Rayon is a regenerated cellulose fiber which is almost pure cellulose. Rayon burns rapidly and leaves only a slight ash. The burning smell is close to burning leaves.
Blends consist of two or more fibers and, ideally, are supposed to take on the characteristics of each fiber in the blend. The burning test can be used but the fabric content will be an assumption.
FABRIC IDENTIFICATION
Burn Test - CAUTION. WARNING. BE CAREFUL! This should only be done by skilled burners! Make sure there is a bucket of water nearby and that you burn in a metal bucket or non-plastic sink.
To identify fabric that is unknown, a simple burn test can be done to determine if the fabric is a natural fiber, man made fiber, or a blend of natural and man made fibers. The burn test is used by many fabric stores and designers and takes practice to determine the exact fiber content. However, an inexperienced person can still determine the difference between many fibers to "narrow" the choices down to natural or man made fibers. This elimination process will give information necessary to decide the care of the fabric.
WARNING: All fibers will burn! Asbestos treated fibers are, for the most part fire proof. The burning test should be done with caution. Use a small piece of fabric only. Hold the fabric with tweezers, not your fingers. Burn over a metal dish with soda in the bottom or even water in the bottom of the dish. Some fabrics will ignite and melt. The result is burning drips which can adhere to fabric or skin and cause a serious burn.
Cotton is a plant fiber. When ignited it burns with a steady flame and smells like burning leaves. The ash left is easily crumbled. Small samples of burning cotton can be blown out as you would a candle.
Linen is also a plant fiber but different from cotton in that the individual plant fibers which make up the yarn are long where cotton fibers are short. Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric closest to the ash is very brittle. Linen is easily extinguished by blowing on it as you would a candle.
Silk is a protein fiber and usually burns readily, not necessarily with a steady flame, and smells like burning hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily extinguished as cotton or linen.
Wool is also a protein fiber but is harder to ignite than silk as the individual "hair" fibers are shorter than silk and the weave of the fabrics is generally looser than with silk. The flame is steady but more difficult to keep burning. The smell of burning wool is like burning hair.
Man Made Fibers
Acetate is made from cellulose (wood fibers), technically cellulose acetate. Acetate burns readily with a flickering flame that cannot be easily extinguished. The burning cellulose drips and leaves a hard ash. The smell is similar to burning wood chips.
Acrylic technically acrylonitrile is made from natural gas and petroleum. Acrylics burn readily due to the fiber content and the lofty, air filled pockets. A match or cigarette dropped on an acrylic blanket can ignite the fabric which will burn rapidly unless extinguished. The ash is hard. The smell is acrid or harsh.
Nylon is a polyamide made from petroleum. Nylon melts and then burns rapidly if the flame remains on the melted fiber. If you can keep the flame on the melting nylon, it smells like burning plastic.
Polyester is a polymer produced from coal, air, water, and petroleum products. Polyester melts and burns at the same time, the melting, burning ash can bond quickly to any surface it drips on including skin. The smoke from polyester is black with a sweetish smell. The extinguished ash is hard.
Rayon is a regenerated cellulose fiber which is almost pure cellulose. Rayon burns rapidly and leaves only a slight ash. The burning smell is close to burning leaves.
Blends consist of two or more fibers and, ideally, are supposed to take on the characteristics of each fiber in the blend. The burning test can be used but the fabric content will be an assumption.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
FABRIC CARE
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store.
Generally, the best rule is to follow the care instructions on the manufacturer’s label. If there is no label and/or you wish to wash a garment or fabric at home instead of dry clean, the properties of each fabric will help you determine the care of the fabric or garment.
Dry Cleaning is by definition, cleaning with solvents and little or no water. The combination of solvents and heat is hard on fabrics and may cause as much wear as actual wearing of the garment. Perchlorethylene, the cleaning fluid used by most dry cleaners, is the most effective cleaner so far for most all types of fabrics. However, "perc" as it is called in the dry-cleaning industry is classified as a hazardous air pollutant by the Clean Air Act. Perc is toxic. Dry cleaning customers should take their garments out of the plastic bags and air their garments after dry cleaning.
You, the consumer, can inform yourself when selecting a dry cleaner. Common sense will cover the basic questions such as the appearance of the dry cleaning store - - - Is it neat and clean or dirty and cluttered? Is the location convenient and are they open when you need to drop of or pick up your dry cleaning?
Technical considerations include solvent purity. Solvent must be distilled to remove greases, oils, waxes and dyes. Poor solvent purity or quality can result in an objectionable odor in the garment and a "graying" of white clothing.
Pressing after cleaning should also be considered. Most anyone can press wool pants but it takes a skilled professional presser to do a quality job on linen and silk items. If the dry cleaner cannot explain the difference in pressing linen and silk versus wool directly and authoritatively, it is doubtful that these garments will be handled with the care they require. Linen can withstand higher heat when ironed, and should be pressed when damp. Silk requires a lower temperature iron and should be steam ironed, preferably with a press cloth. Wool should be pressed with steam and a moderate temperature.
Packaging of the cleaned garment is also important. A garment can be cleaned and pressed well but if it is jammed into a small bag, it can become a wrinkled mess. Jamming too many finished and bagged garments into the dry cleaners rack can also wrinkle finished garments.
Finally, develop a dialogue with your dry cleaner. Note the type of stains that you have on your garment and list it for the dry cleaner. Their pre-spotting will help eliminate stains that could otherwise be heat set after the garment is cleaned.
Be an informed and fair consumer. Not all spots can be removed especially if you, the consumer, have pressed the stain into the fabric. Many stains can be heat set. Garment care is the responsibility of both you and your dry cleaner.
Wet Cleaning is described as a new process by some cleaning establishments. They advertise that their process will replace dry cleaning and the environmentally dangerous solvents they use. However, until this process is perfected and proven to effectively replace dry cleaning, caution should be used by the consumer. Wet cleaning is accomplished by using water based chemicals. Some cleaning establishments actually claim to have this service but just hand wash the garment and then professionally press the garment. This process works well with some fabrics which have manufacturers labels stating "hand wash". Garments with labels printed "dry clean only" may shrink, fade, or wrinkle so badly that pressing does not restore then original look of the fabric.
New "wet cleaning" stores are available in some areas. The "wet cleaning" process involves computer controlled machines, soap, conditioners and finishers. This new process is supposed to replace dry cleaning. However, until the wet cleaning process has been thoroughly tested, care should be taken before taking your favorite "dry clean only" garments to the new establishments. Outer fabric, interfacings, linings, shoulder pads, and finishes all react differently when washed. Some fabrics shrink or change shape when washed. Some shoulder pads are designed for dry cleaning only and may fall apart when washed.
Professional laundering is offered by most dry cleaners. Washable garments are professionally washed and pressed. Men’s and women’s shirts are often bleached and starched according to the manufacturers label. Some of the laundering is done with very hot water which may shrink the interfacing or stiffening used in collars and cuffs. Less expensive garments may use interfacing that either shrinks or comes loose with very hot water. These garments cannot be fixed.
Starching shirts and other cotton or cotton/polyester garments is common. The basic function of starch is to stiffen the garment. Incidental use is to prevent stains from penetrating the fiber. However, starch leaves minute crystals in the fiber and can often wear the garment out faster than a garment that has not been starched. The choice is then appearance versus longer life for your garment.
Home Laundering is not only easier to control but can add life to your garments. Choosing a detergent for home laundering is a daunting task!
Detergents are chemical compounds that contain wetting agents and emulsifiers. Technically detergents are called "Synthetic Detergents" as they are not made from fats and lye from which soap is made. Generally the labels on the detergent inform you, the consumer, and make the choice easier.
General purpose laundry detergents work well on most washable fabrics. Some detergents take more product for each wash as fillers are used by the detergent manufacture. Recently, detergent companies have started to reduce the amount of fillers in their products, thus the amount of detergent required per load of laundry is less. Read the label to determine various additives. Added bleach may gradually remove the dyes or color unless the garment is colorfast to bleach. Most all detergents have "surfactants" this is nothing new. Whiteners can be either bleach or bluing agents. More expensive is not always better.
Soap is not the same as detergents. All detergents are soaps but not all soaps are detergents. Confused? Soap was first used in 600 BC Soap was first made by boiling goat fat, water, and ash high in potassium carbonate. Although soap has been improved over the years, it still leaves a deposit we call "soap scum" in the shower and bath. This scum is difficult to remove from fabrics if soap is used in the laundry.
Chlorine bleaches can safely be used on cotton, cotton/polyester and some man made fabrics. Consult the garment care label or properties of individual fibers listed in this booklet.
Hand washing detergents can be used for home laundry when cleaning fine fabrics. These products are often effective when using cold water. However, not all hand washing detergents are milder than regular laundry products although they are often more expensive. Properties to look for when using hand washing detergents include use in cold water, quick dissolving in cold water, and complete rinsing of the detergent after the wash.
To test hand washing detergents or any detergent, dissolve recommended amount of detergent in a quart of cold water. Allow the detergent and water to sit for 24 hours. Note the residue, if any, in the bottom of the quart jar. This residue may be difficult to rinse out of your garment.
Shampoos can also be used for hand washing garments. Use a good shampoo, not one containing "creme rinse". If your shampoo cleans your hair and leaves it shiny with no residues, it usually cleans your garment too.
Fabric softeners, both liquid and dryer sheets, add products to your fabrics. Some of the softeners are wax based which leaves a coating on the fibers creating a feel of softer but reducing the absorbency of the fiber. Some softeners have a perfume that is allergy related for many people. If you have ever used a fabric softener dryer sheet with your polyester garments, you may have seen "grease" spots appear on your garment. This is actually a wax and can be removed by re-washing.
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store.
Generally, the best rule is to follow the care instructions on the manufacturer’s label. If there is no label and/or you wish to wash a garment or fabric at home instead of dry clean, the properties of each fabric will help you determine the care of the fabric or garment.
Dry Cleaning is by definition, cleaning with solvents and little or no water. The combination of solvents and heat is hard on fabrics and may cause as much wear as actual wearing of the garment. Perchlorethylene, the cleaning fluid used by most dry cleaners, is the most effective cleaner so far for most all types of fabrics. However, "perc" as it is called in the dry-cleaning industry is classified as a hazardous air pollutant by the Clean Air Act. Perc is toxic. Dry cleaning customers should take their garments out of the plastic bags and air their garments after dry cleaning.
You, the consumer, can inform yourself when selecting a dry cleaner. Common sense will cover the basic questions such as the appearance of the dry cleaning store - - - Is it neat and clean or dirty and cluttered? Is the location convenient and are they open when you need to drop of or pick up your dry cleaning?
Technical considerations include solvent purity. Solvent must be distilled to remove greases, oils, waxes and dyes. Poor solvent purity or quality can result in an objectionable odor in the garment and a "graying" of white clothing.
Pressing after cleaning should also be considered. Most anyone can press wool pants but it takes a skilled professional presser to do a quality job on linen and silk items. If the dry cleaner cannot explain the difference in pressing linen and silk versus wool directly and authoritatively, it is doubtful that these garments will be handled with the care they require. Linen can withstand higher heat when ironed, and should be pressed when damp. Silk requires a lower temperature iron and should be steam ironed, preferably with a press cloth. Wool should be pressed with steam and a moderate temperature.
Packaging of the cleaned garment is also important. A garment can be cleaned and pressed well but if it is jammed into a small bag, it can become a wrinkled mess. Jamming too many finished and bagged garments into the dry cleaners rack can also wrinkle finished garments.
Finally, develop a dialogue with your dry cleaner. Note the type of stains that you have on your garment and list it for the dry cleaner. Their pre-spotting will help eliminate stains that could otherwise be heat set after the garment is cleaned.
Be an informed and fair consumer. Not all spots can be removed especially if you, the consumer, have pressed the stain into the fabric. Many stains can be heat set. Garment care is the responsibility of both you and your dry cleaner.
Wet Cleaning is described as a new process by some cleaning establishments. They advertise that their process will replace dry cleaning and the environmentally dangerous solvents they use. However, until this process is perfected and proven to effectively replace dry cleaning, caution should be used by the consumer. Wet cleaning is accomplished by using water based chemicals. Some cleaning establishments actually claim to have this service but just hand wash the garment and then professionally press the garment. This process works well with some fabrics which have manufacturers labels stating "hand wash". Garments with labels printed "dry clean only" may shrink, fade, or wrinkle so badly that pressing does not restore then original look of the fabric.
New "wet cleaning" stores are available in some areas. The "wet cleaning" process involves computer controlled machines, soap, conditioners and finishers. This new process is supposed to replace dry cleaning. However, until the wet cleaning process has been thoroughly tested, care should be taken before taking your favorite "dry clean only" garments to the new establishments. Outer fabric, interfacings, linings, shoulder pads, and finishes all react differently when washed. Some fabrics shrink or change shape when washed. Some shoulder pads are designed for dry cleaning only and may fall apart when washed.
Professional laundering is offered by most dry cleaners. Washable garments are professionally washed and pressed. Men’s and women’s shirts are often bleached and starched according to the manufacturers label. Some of the laundering is done with very hot water which may shrink the interfacing or stiffening used in collars and cuffs. Less expensive garments may use interfacing that either shrinks or comes loose with very hot water. These garments cannot be fixed.
Starching shirts and other cotton or cotton/polyester garments is common. The basic function of starch is to stiffen the garment. Incidental use is to prevent stains from penetrating the fiber. However, starch leaves minute crystals in the fiber and can often wear the garment out faster than a garment that has not been starched. The choice is then appearance versus longer life for your garment.
Home Laundering is not only easier to control but can add life to your garments. Choosing a detergent for home laundering is a daunting task!
Detergents are chemical compounds that contain wetting agents and emulsifiers. Technically detergents are called "Synthetic Detergents" as they are not made from fats and lye from which soap is made. Generally the labels on the detergent inform you, the consumer, and make the choice easier.
General purpose laundry detergents work well on most washable fabrics. Some detergents take more product for each wash as fillers are used by the detergent manufacture. Recently, detergent companies have started to reduce the amount of fillers in their products, thus the amount of detergent required per load of laundry is less. Read the label to determine various additives. Added bleach may gradually remove the dyes or color unless the garment is colorfast to bleach. Most all detergents have "surfactants" this is nothing new. Whiteners can be either bleach or bluing agents. More expensive is not always better.
Soap is not the same as detergents. All detergents are soaps but not all soaps are detergents. Confused? Soap was first used in 600 BC Soap was first made by boiling goat fat, water, and ash high in potassium carbonate. Although soap has been improved over the years, it still leaves a deposit we call "soap scum" in the shower and bath. This scum is difficult to remove from fabrics if soap is used in the laundry.
Chlorine bleaches can safely be used on cotton, cotton/polyester and some man made fabrics. Consult the garment care label or properties of individual fibers listed in this booklet.
Hand washing detergents can be used for home laundry when cleaning fine fabrics. These products are often effective when using cold water. However, not all hand washing detergents are milder than regular laundry products although they are often more expensive. Properties to look for when using hand washing detergents include use in cold water, quick dissolving in cold water, and complete rinsing of the detergent after the wash.
To test hand washing detergents or any detergent, dissolve recommended amount of detergent in a quart of cold water. Allow the detergent and water to sit for 24 hours. Note the residue, if any, in the bottom of the quart jar. This residue may be difficult to rinse out of your garment.
Shampoos can also be used for hand washing garments. Use a good shampoo, not one containing "creme rinse". If your shampoo cleans your hair and leaves it shiny with no residues, it usually cleans your garment too.
Fabric softeners, both liquid and dryer sheets, add products to your fabrics. Some of the softeners are wax based which leaves a coating on the fibers creating a feel of softer but reducing the absorbency of the fiber. Some softeners have a perfume that is allergy related for many people. If you have ever used a fabric softener dryer sheet with your polyester garments, you may have seen "grease" spots appear on your garment. This is actually a wax and can be removed by re-washing.
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store.
Manufactured Fabrics are usually made of filaments extruded as liquid and formed into various fibers. Because the fiber starts as a liquid, many of the fibers are colored before they become filament, thus they are difficult to dye after the fiber is woven into a fabric.
ACETATE is not a strong fiber but can be extruded into fibers of different diameter and woven into fabrics that have the luxurious look of silk but do not wear like silk. Acetate does not absorb moisture readily but dries fast and resists shrinking. This is a resilient fabric that resists wrinkling in addition to being pliable and soft with a good drape. Triacetate is an improved acetate fabric which doesn’t melt as easier and is easier to care for. Remember, acetate in nail polish and nail polish remover will melt acetate as will alcohol so take care with perfumes and nail products including SuperGlue.
ACRYLIC is a fine soft and luxurious fabric with the bulk and hand of wool. Light weight and springy, this fabric is non-allergenic, dries quickly, draws moisture away from the body and is washable. Acrylic does not take even a moderate amount of heat. Modacrylics are used in pile fabrics like fake fur and are more flame resistant.
LASTEX is an elastic fiber made from Latex. It is most often used with other fibers to create fabrics such as Spandex and foundation garments. Lastex will deteriorate after repeated washing and drying, losing its elasticity.
NYLON became a household word in 1940 when it was knitted into hosiery. In 1942 it was called into service for the armed forces use in parachutes, flak vests, combat uniforms, tires and many other vital military uses. Until the war was over nylon was not available to the public. Nylon became one of the most versatile fibers of the man-made fabrics. In addition to hosiery, nylon is used in tricot, netting for bridal veils, and in carpeting.
Nylon is stronger yet weighs less than any other commonly used fiber. It is elastic and resilient and responsive to heat setting. Nylon fibers are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt doesn’t cling to this smooth fiber nor is it weakened by chemicals and perspiration. Extensive washing and drying in an automatic dryer can eventually cause piling. Nylon whites should be washed separately to avoid graying. This fabric may yellow so it should be bleached frequently with sodium perborate bleach.
Nylon melts at high temperatures. If ironing is necessary, always use a low temperature on the wrong side.
POLYESTER is a strong fiber that is resistant to crease and thus keeps it shape. Polyester melts at medium to high temperatures. Although many people dislike polyester, perhaps due to the double knit fad of the 1950, polyester remains a versatile and important man-made fabric. Blends of polyester give cotton a permanent press property and extend the wear of these blended garments.
Polyester is manufactured in many weights including fiber-fill used in pillows and upholstery. Threads spun from polyester fibers are strong, wear exceptionally well, and are used extensively in home sewing and manufactured sewing.
RAYON, from cellulose, has many of the qualities of cotton, a natural cellulose fiber. Rayon is strong, extremely absorbent, comes in a variety of qualities and weights, and can be made to resemble natural fabrics. Rayon does not melt but burns at high temperatures.
Rayon drapes well, has a soft, silky hand, and has a smooth, napped, or bulky surface. Rayon will wrinkle easily and may stretch when wet and shrink when washed.
Technological advancemnts to the rayon process have produced high wet modulus [HWM] rayons such as lyocell and modal which makes fabric less prone to stretch when damp or wet.
Washable rayon will state the care on the fabric label. Like silk, if you pre-wash rayon fabric prior to construction of the garment, you have a washable garment.
Glossary of Rayon Fabrics
Fibranne is French term for Viscose rayon.
Velvet, although made from silk, is most often produced from the rayon fiber.
SPANDEX is an elastic type fiber that can be stretched many times its length and then spring back to the original length. Spandex is more resistant to washing, perspiration, and heat than latex. Spandex is used in foundation garments and hosiery.
Manufactured Fabrics are usually made of filaments extruded as liquid and formed into various fibers. Because the fiber starts as a liquid, many of the fibers are colored before they become filament, thus they are difficult to dye after the fiber is woven into a fabric.
ACETATE is not a strong fiber but can be extruded into fibers of different diameter and woven into fabrics that have the luxurious look of silk but do not wear like silk. Acetate does not absorb moisture readily but dries fast and resists shrinking. This is a resilient fabric that resists wrinkling in addition to being pliable and soft with a good drape. Triacetate is an improved acetate fabric which doesn’t melt as easier and is easier to care for. Remember, acetate in nail polish and nail polish remover will melt acetate as will alcohol so take care with perfumes and nail products including SuperGlue.
ACRYLIC is a fine soft and luxurious fabric with the bulk and hand of wool. Light weight and springy, this fabric is non-allergenic, dries quickly, draws moisture away from the body and is washable. Acrylic does not take even a moderate amount of heat. Modacrylics are used in pile fabrics like fake fur and are more flame resistant.
LASTEX is an elastic fiber made from Latex. It is most often used with other fibers to create fabrics such as Spandex and foundation garments. Lastex will deteriorate after repeated washing and drying, losing its elasticity.
NYLON became a household word in 1940 when it was knitted into hosiery. In 1942 it was called into service for the armed forces use in parachutes, flak vests, combat uniforms, tires and many other vital military uses. Until the war was over nylon was not available to the public. Nylon became one of the most versatile fibers of the man-made fabrics. In addition to hosiery, nylon is used in tricot, netting for bridal veils, and in carpeting.
Nylon is stronger yet weighs less than any other commonly used fiber. It is elastic and resilient and responsive to heat setting. Nylon fibers are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt doesn’t cling to this smooth fiber nor is it weakened by chemicals and perspiration. Extensive washing and drying in an automatic dryer can eventually cause piling. Nylon whites should be washed separately to avoid graying. This fabric may yellow so it should be bleached frequently with sodium perborate bleach.
Nylon melts at high temperatures. If ironing is necessary, always use a low temperature on the wrong side.
POLYESTER is a strong fiber that is resistant to crease and thus keeps it shape. Polyester melts at medium to high temperatures. Although many people dislike polyester, perhaps due to the double knit fad of the 1950, polyester remains a versatile and important man-made fabric. Blends of polyester give cotton a permanent press property and extend the wear of these blended garments.
Polyester is manufactured in many weights including fiber-fill used in pillows and upholstery. Threads spun from polyester fibers are strong, wear exceptionally well, and are used extensively in home sewing and manufactured sewing.
RAYON, from cellulose, has many of the qualities of cotton, a natural cellulose fiber. Rayon is strong, extremely absorbent, comes in a variety of qualities and weights, and can be made to resemble natural fabrics. Rayon does not melt but burns at high temperatures.
Rayon drapes well, has a soft, silky hand, and has a smooth, napped, or bulky surface. Rayon will wrinkle easily and may stretch when wet and shrink when washed.
Technological advancemnts to the rayon process have produced high wet modulus [HWM] rayons such as lyocell and modal which makes fabric less prone to stretch when damp or wet.
Washable rayon will state the care on the fabric label. Like silk, if you pre-wash rayon fabric prior to construction of the garment, you have a washable garment.
Glossary of Rayon Fabrics
Fibranne is French term for Viscose rayon.
Velvet, although made from silk, is most often produced from the rayon fiber.
SPANDEX is an elastic type fiber that can be stretched many times its length and then spring back to the original length. Spandex is more resistant to washing, perspiration, and heat than latex. Spandex is used in foundation garments and hosiery.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashions store.
HEMP is currently being used by designers in clothing. When thinking of hemp, the illegal plant, marijuana comes to mind. No, hemp fabric does not contain the narcotic chemical that, when smoked produces the "high" that smoking marijuana produces. Marijuana is from the dried flowers and leaves of the Cannabis Sativa plant. Hemp fabric is made from the stems of the plant. The stems are processed to dissolve the gum or pectin and separate the fibers which are then processed again and woven into yarns and fabric. The finest hemp for fabric is produced in Italy. Hemp fabric is like linen in both hand and appearance. Hemp fabric withstands water better than any other textile product. It wrinkles easily and should not be creased excessively to avoid wear and breakage of the fibers.
RAMIE is also similar to linen and is a bast of plant fiber. It is natural white in color, has a high luster and an unusual resistance to bacteria and molds. Used in fabrics, and often mistaken for linen, it is extremely absorbent and dries quickly. Ramie has excellent abrasion resistance and has been tested to be three to five times stronger than cotton and twice as strong as flax. It is an inexpensive fiber from an East Asian plant and can be spun or woven into a fabric.
JUTE is a glossy fiber from a plant. It is seen most often in sacks, rope, twine, and as backing on carpeting.
HEMP is currently being used by designers in clothing. When thinking of hemp, the illegal plant, marijuana comes to mind. No, hemp fabric does not contain the narcotic chemical that, when smoked produces the "high" that smoking marijuana produces. Marijuana is from the dried flowers and leaves of the Cannabis Sativa plant. Hemp fabric is made from the stems of the plant. The stems are processed to dissolve the gum or pectin and separate the fibers which are then processed again and woven into yarns and fabric. The finest hemp for fabric is produced in Italy. Hemp fabric is like linen in both hand and appearance. Hemp fabric withstands water better than any other textile product. It wrinkles easily and should not be creased excessively to avoid wear and breakage of the fibers.
RAMIE is also similar to linen and is a bast of plant fiber. It is natural white in color, has a high luster and an unusual resistance to bacteria and molds. Used in fabrics, and often mistaken for linen, it is extremely absorbent and dries quickly. Ramie has excellent abrasion resistance and has been tested to be three to five times stronger than cotton and twice as strong as flax. It is an inexpensive fiber from an East Asian plant and can be spun or woven into a fabric.
JUTE is a glossy fiber from a plant. It is seen most often in sacks, rope, twine, and as backing on carpeting.
Monday, March 16, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashion store. Today we are going to talk about Linen.
LINEN, elegant, beautiful, durable, the refined luxury fabric. Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. Linen table cloths and napkins have been handed down generation to generation. Not only is the linen fiber strong, it is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free. Fine china, silver and candles are enhanced by the luster of linen which only gets softer and finer the more it is washed.
Linen is from flax, a bast fiber taken from the stalk of the plant. The luster is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fiber can be easily dyed and the color does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily but also presses easily. Linen, like cotton, can also be boiled without damaging the fiber.
Highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, this fabric is cool in garments. However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during the laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily.
LINEN, elegant, beautiful, durable, the refined luxury fabric. Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. Linen table cloths and napkins have been handed down generation to generation. Not only is the linen fiber strong, it is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free. Fine china, silver and candles are enhanced by the luster of linen which only gets softer and finer the more it is washed.
Linen is from flax, a bast fiber taken from the stalk of the plant. The luster is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fiber can be easily dyed and the color does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily but also presses easily. Linen, like cotton, can also be boiled without damaging the fiber.
Highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, this fabric is cool in garments. However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during the laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashion store. Today we are going to talk about cotton.
COTTON, cool, soft, comfortable, the principal clothing fiber of the world. Its production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic stability. Cotton "breathes". What would we do without cotton? Since cotton wrinkles, polyester was added to give it wash and wear properties for a busy world. In recent times, the consumer determined that polyester, although easier to care for, took away the cool from cotton and also added a "pilling" effect to cotton/polyester blends. Consumers now often request "100% Cotton". Permanent finishes also added to the all cotton fabric gave a wash and wear property to cotton. cotton. The cotton fiber is from the cotton plant’s seed pod The fiber is hollow in the center and, under a microscope looks like a twisted ribbon. "Absorbent" cotton will retain 24-27 times its own weight in water and is stronger when wet than dry. This fiber absorbs and releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to "breathe". Cotton can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily. Chlorine bleach can be used to restore white garments to a clear white but this bleach may yellow chemically finished cottons or remove color in dyed cottons. Boiling and sterilizing temperatures can also be used on cotton without disintegration. Cotton can also be ironed at relatively high temperatures, stands up to abrasion and wears well.
Mercerized cotton is treated to permanently straighten the cotton fibers which then becomes a smooth, rod-like fiber that is uniform in appearance with a high luster. Cotton is often blended with other fibers such as polyester, linen, wool, to "blend" the best properties of each fiber.
COTTON, cool, soft, comfortable, the principal clothing fiber of the world. Its production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic stability. Cotton "breathes". What would we do without cotton? Since cotton wrinkles, polyester was added to give it wash and wear properties for a busy world. In recent times, the consumer determined that polyester, although easier to care for, took away the cool from cotton and also added a "pilling" effect to cotton/polyester blends. Consumers now often request "100% Cotton". Permanent finishes also added to the all cotton fabric gave a wash and wear property to cotton. cotton. The cotton fiber is from the cotton plant’s seed pod The fiber is hollow in the center and, under a microscope looks like a twisted ribbon. "Absorbent" cotton will retain 24-27 times its own weight in water and is stronger when wet than dry. This fiber absorbs and releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to "breathe". Cotton can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily. Chlorine bleach can be used to restore white garments to a clear white but this bleach may yellow chemically finished cottons or remove color in dyed cottons. Boiling and sterilizing temperatures can also be used on cotton without disintegration. Cotton can also be ironed at relatively high temperatures, stands up to abrasion and wears well.
Mercerized cotton is treated to permanently straighten the cotton fibers which then becomes a smooth, rod-like fiber that is uniform in appearance with a high luster. Cotton is often blended with other fibers such as polyester, linen, wool, to "blend" the best properties of each fiber.
Friday, March 13, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashion store. Today we are going to talk about the different types of wool.
Glossary of Wool Fabrics and Weaves
Beaver cloth is a heavy woolen overcoating, napped and pressed down to resemble beaver fur. This fabric is also a plush fabric that is used for hats.
Botany/Merino wool is a fine wool made from worsted wool yarn.
Broadcloth is an all woolen or worsted fabric with a velvety feel.
Challis, a light weight soft wool in plain weave, has a printed or woven design or flowers.
Cheviot, usually Scotch wool is a soft, fine wool that is heavier than serge.
Chinchilla cloth is a heavy, spongy woolen overcoat fabric with a long nap that has been rubbed into a curly, nubby finish.
Donegal was originally a thick and warm homespun or tweed woven by Irish peasants in Donegal, Ireland. Donegal now describes the wool tweed that has colorful thick slubs woven into the fabric.
Felt fabric is a compact sheet of entangled, not woven wool, fur, sometimes cotton fibers. The felt is produced by processing a mat of fibers with moisture, heat, and pressure.
Flannel wool is a soft, lightweight fabric with a nap on one or both sides.
Gabardine is a tightly woven wool twill with a high sheen. This fabric is excellent for tailoring and wears well.
Glen checks are usually seen in menswear and originated in Scotland. It is characterized by a variety of small, even check designs.
Harris tweed is a hand woven fabric from Scotland with a soft feel.
Heather Mixture describes tweeds and homespun’s that have colors of heather and sand of the Scottish heather fields.
Herringbone wool is woven in a twill that is reversed at regular spacing, creating a sawtooth line.
Homespun is a loose, strong, durable woolen woven either by hand or machine with a coarse feel.
Wool
WOOL fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool’s are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fiber with such serration’s which make it possible for the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serration’s will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.
Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool’s require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.
WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS, although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.
Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.
Mohair is from the angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair’s luster, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsteds.
Angora wool is from the angora rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.
Camel hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel’s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for overcoating, topcoating, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel’s hair are usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, it is said that a 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woolen fabric.
Cashmere is from the Kasmir goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool.
Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard.
Houndstooth check has a four pointed star check in a broken twill weave.
Jersey is a knit fabric that is usually knit in fine wool but can also be found in silk, and man-made fibers.
Laine is French for "wool".
Lambsdown is a heavy knit fabric that has a spongy fleeced nap on one side.
Linsey-woolsey is a coarse fabric first made in Lindsey, England, of wool combined with flax or cotton.
Loden fabric is a thick, soft, waterproof, windproof, wool used in outerwear that has a characteristic green color.
Mackinaw fabric is a heavy double fabric in striking colored patterns.
Melton, a heavy, tick, short napped fabric without a finish press or gloss.
Merino wool is soft and luxurious, resembling cashmere. This term is also used to describe the finest wool’s.
Oatmeal Cloth is a durable, soft wool with a pebbled face.
Panama Cloth, a plain woven worsted wool, sometimes resembling the texture of Panama hat.
Petersham, a very thick, waterproof woolen coating, usually dark blue, is used for men’s trousers or heavy coats.
Pilot Cloth is a coarse, heavy, stout twilled woolen that is heavily napped and navy blue. Used by seamen.
Poodle Cloth is made with a boucle yarn and resembles the Poodle dog.
Rabbit Hair is used in woven wool’s as a substitute for vicuna to give a soft effect in the fabric.
Sharkskin is woven with warp and filling yarns of alternating white with black, brown or blue.
Tartan is a twilled plaid design, originally Scottish.
Tweed is a rough textured wool, originally homespun and slightly felted. This fabric is sturdy with a mottled color.
Virgin Wool is wool that has never been processed into fabric.
Glossary of Wool Fabrics and Weaves
Beaver cloth is a heavy woolen overcoating, napped and pressed down to resemble beaver fur. This fabric is also a plush fabric that is used for hats.
Botany/Merino wool is a fine wool made from worsted wool yarn.
Broadcloth is an all woolen or worsted fabric with a velvety feel.
Challis, a light weight soft wool in plain weave, has a printed or woven design or flowers.
Cheviot, usually Scotch wool is a soft, fine wool that is heavier than serge.
Chinchilla cloth is a heavy, spongy woolen overcoat fabric with a long nap that has been rubbed into a curly, nubby finish.
Donegal was originally a thick and warm homespun or tweed woven by Irish peasants in Donegal, Ireland. Donegal now describes the wool tweed that has colorful thick slubs woven into the fabric.
Felt fabric is a compact sheet of entangled, not woven wool, fur, sometimes cotton fibers. The felt is produced by processing a mat of fibers with moisture, heat, and pressure.
Flannel wool is a soft, lightweight fabric with a nap on one or both sides.
Gabardine is a tightly woven wool twill with a high sheen. This fabric is excellent for tailoring and wears well.
Glen checks are usually seen in menswear and originated in Scotland. It is characterized by a variety of small, even check designs.
Harris tweed is a hand woven fabric from Scotland with a soft feel.
Heather Mixture describes tweeds and homespun’s that have colors of heather and sand of the Scottish heather fields.
Herringbone wool is woven in a twill that is reversed at regular spacing, creating a sawtooth line.
Homespun is a loose, strong, durable woolen woven either by hand or machine with a coarse feel.
Wool
WOOL fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool’s are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fiber with such serration’s which make it possible for the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serration’s will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.
Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool’s require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.
WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS, although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.
Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.
Mohair is from the angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair’s luster, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsteds.
Angora wool is from the angora rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.
Camel hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel’s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for overcoating, topcoating, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel’s hair are usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, it is said that a 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woolen fabric.
Cashmere is from the Kasmir goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool.
Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard.
Houndstooth check has a four pointed star check in a broken twill weave.
Jersey is a knit fabric that is usually knit in fine wool but can also be found in silk, and man-made fibers.
Laine is French for "wool".
Lambsdown is a heavy knit fabric that has a spongy fleeced nap on one side.
Linsey-woolsey is a coarse fabric first made in Lindsey, England, of wool combined with flax or cotton.
Loden fabric is a thick, soft, waterproof, windproof, wool used in outerwear that has a characteristic green color.
Mackinaw fabric is a heavy double fabric in striking colored patterns.
Melton, a heavy, tick, short napped fabric without a finish press or gloss.
Merino wool is soft and luxurious, resembling cashmere. This term is also used to describe the finest wool’s.
Oatmeal Cloth is a durable, soft wool with a pebbled face.
Panama Cloth, a plain woven worsted wool, sometimes resembling the texture of Panama hat.
Petersham, a very thick, waterproof woolen coating, usually dark blue, is used for men’s trousers or heavy coats.
Pilot Cloth is a coarse, heavy, stout twilled woolen that is heavily napped and navy blue. Used by seamen.
Poodle Cloth is made with a boucle yarn and resembles the Poodle dog.
Rabbit Hair is used in woven wool’s as a substitute for vicuna to give a soft effect in the fabric.
Sharkskin is woven with warp and filling yarns of alternating white with black, brown or blue.
Tartan is a twilled plaid design, originally Scottish.
Tweed is a rough textured wool, originally homespun and slightly felted. This fabric is sturdy with a mottled color.
Virgin Wool is wool that has never been processed into fabric.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online Mens Fashion Store. Today we are going to talk about wool.
WOOL fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool’s are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fiber with such serration’s which make it possible for the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serration’s will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.
Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool’s require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.
WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS, although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.
Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.
Mohair is from the angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair’s luster, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsteds.
Angora wool is from the angora rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.
Camel hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel’s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for overcoating, topcoating, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel’s hair are usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, it is said that a 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woolen fabric.
Cashmere is from the Kasmir goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool.
Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard.
WOOL fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool’s are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fiber with such serration’s which make it possible for the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serration’s will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.
Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool’s require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.
WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS, although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.
Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.
Mohair is from the angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair’s luster, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsteds.
Angora wool is from the angora rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.
Camel hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel’s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for overcoating, topcoating, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel’s hair are usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, it is said that a 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woolen fabric.
Cashmere is from the Kasmir goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool.
Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashion store. Today we are going to talk about cashmere.
What is cashmere? Cashmere is the underdown shed annually by goats living in the high, dry plateaus surrounding the Gobi Desert, which stretch from Northern China into Mongolia. These goats have a coarse outer hair that repels the weather. Under that outer coat lies a much finer fiber, cashmere, which insulates these animals from the bitter cold.
Why is cashmere so expensive? The harsh geography of this area of the Gobi Desert supports a very limited number of goats. It takes one of these rare goats four years to grow enough cashmere for one sweater. Each goat is combed by hand every spring. Then the fleece is collected and sorted by hand. Cashmere sweaters are usually knit on hand-operated machines. Therefore, the scarcity of the fiber and the handwork required to convert that fiber into a luxurious garment both contribute to cashmere’s price.
Why do similar looking sweaters have very different prices? There are significant differences in the quality of cashmere, and therefore, the price of the fiber that can be used in a cashmere garment. There are variations in the fineness of the cashmere from various origins. There are also more subtle variations within origins. Finer cashmere is more expensive than coarser cashmere. Color also plays a role. The whiter, more expensive fiber needs less dye to color it. Dying harms the feel of the cashmere so this is important. Cashmere fiber is also priced by its length. Longer fiber is more expensive because it makes stronger yarn that pills less. All of these variables play a role in the cost variation between seemingly similar garments. Usually you get what you pay for. top
How do I tell a good cashmere sweater from a poor one? Your fingers are very good judges. If a cashmere sweater doesn’t feel smooth, soft and luxurious, don’t buy it. The other critical factor is density/weight. Pull the sides of the sweater apart and then let them go. The sweater should snap back to its original shape. Loosely knit, limp fabric is the hallmark of a cheaply made sweater. A good sweater should feel hefty and substantial even if it is lightweight.
How do I care for a cashmere sweater? Threat your cashmere like your hair. Gently wash it in warm water with a mild soap (shampoo will do). Block it out on a towel to shape and let it dry. Dry cleaning may be the only answer for stubborn stains. top
Is two ply yarn best? If you cut a piece of yarn off a ball and hold the two ends together, the yarn will wrap around itself because of the torque created during the spinning process. In a single-ply garment this torque may translate into a bias in the fabric. Two ply is better than one because the ply twist in the opposite direction offsets the torque inherent in a singles yarn. Two ply yarn is also more even because the thick and thin paces tend to average out. But that is as far as it goes. Further plies add no additional quality. Sweater designers use additional plies to add weight and color options.
What are the differences between European and Asian made cashmere sweaters? The world’s cashmere comes from China and to a lesser extent Mongolia. So the source of the fiber is the same. Chinese garments have the highest level of handwork and because the labor cost is relatively low, these garments usually have good value. European garments have exceptional style and color, which offsets their higher price. top
What causes pilling? Pilling is caused by the abrasion of short fibers into small balls on the surface of the fabric. Some pilling will occur in most new sweaters, especially those worn under other garments. But the problem will not persist in a good garment after the first cleaning. Persistent pilling is the result of a high percentage of short fibers combined with a loosely knit fabric. Lower quality manufacturers use shorter fiber because it is cheaper. They also knit loosely to keep the weight of the garment and thus the amount of cashmere used to a minimum. To make these low quality garments feel better, they are produced with a significant amount of surface fiber. This fuzzy surface is initially pleasing to the touch, but signifies long term pilling problems.
Why do lighter sweaters feel softer than darker ones? Dying harms the feel of all natural fibers. Most Chinese cashmere is naturally white. So it takes more dying to convert it inot a darker shade. Experienced producers can minimize but not eliminate the difference in "handle" between lights and darks.
How long will a cashmere sweater last? That depends on he quality and how it is worn. Generally speaking more expensive sweaters will last longer than less expensive sweaters. Under normal wear circumstances a well-made cashmere sweater should last many years.
What is cashmere? Cashmere is the underdown shed annually by goats living in the high, dry plateaus surrounding the Gobi Desert, which stretch from Northern China into Mongolia. These goats have a coarse outer hair that repels the weather. Under that outer coat lies a much finer fiber, cashmere, which insulates these animals from the bitter cold.
Why is cashmere so expensive? The harsh geography of this area of the Gobi Desert supports a very limited number of goats. It takes one of these rare goats four years to grow enough cashmere for one sweater. Each goat is combed by hand every spring. Then the fleece is collected and sorted by hand. Cashmere sweaters are usually knit on hand-operated machines. Therefore, the scarcity of the fiber and the handwork required to convert that fiber into a luxurious garment both contribute to cashmere’s price.
Why do similar looking sweaters have very different prices? There are significant differences in the quality of cashmere, and therefore, the price of the fiber that can be used in a cashmere garment. There are variations in the fineness of the cashmere from various origins. There are also more subtle variations within origins. Finer cashmere is more expensive than coarser cashmere. Color also plays a role. The whiter, more expensive fiber needs less dye to color it. Dying harms the feel of the cashmere so this is important. Cashmere fiber is also priced by its length. Longer fiber is more expensive because it makes stronger yarn that pills less. All of these variables play a role in the cost variation between seemingly similar garments. Usually you get what you pay for. top
How do I tell a good cashmere sweater from a poor one? Your fingers are very good judges. If a cashmere sweater doesn’t feel smooth, soft and luxurious, don’t buy it. The other critical factor is density/weight. Pull the sides of the sweater apart and then let them go. The sweater should snap back to its original shape. Loosely knit, limp fabric is the hallmark of a cheaply made sweater. A good sweater should feel hefty and substantial even if it is lightweight.
How do I care for a cashmere sweater? Threat your cashmere like your hair. Gently wash it in warm water with a mild soap (shampoo will do). Block it out on a towel to shape and let it dry. Dry cleaning may be the only answer for stubborn stains. top
Is two ply yarn best? If you cut a piece of yarn off a ball and hold the two ends together, the yarn will wrap around itself because of the torque created during the spinning process. In a single-ply garment this torque may translate into a bias in the fabric. Two ply is better than one because the ply twist in the opposite direction offsets the torque inherent in a singles yarn. Two ply yarn is also more even because the thick and thin paces tend to average out. But that is as far as it goes. Further plies add no additional quality. Sweater designers use additional plies to add weight and color options.
What are the differences between European and Asian made cashmere sweaters? The world’s cashmere comes from China and to a lesser extent Mongolia. So the source of the fiber is the same. Chinese garments have the highest level of handwork and because the labor cost is relatively low, these garments usually have good value. European garments have exceptional style and color, which offsets their higher price. top
What causes pilling? Pilling is caused by the abrasion of short fibers into small balls on the surface of the fabric. Some pilling will occur in most new sweaters, especially those worn under other garments. But the problem will not persist in a good garment after the first cleaning. Persistent pilling is the result of a high percentage of short fibers combined with a loosely knit fabric. Lower quality manufacturers use shorter fiber because it is cheaper. They also knit loosely to keep the weight of the garment and thus the amount of cashmere used to a minimum. To make these low quality garments feel better, they are produced with a significant amount of surface fiber. This fuzzy surface is initially pleasing to the touch, but signifies long term pilling problems.
Why do lighter sweaters feel softer than darker ones? Dying harms the feel of all natural fibers. Most Chinese cashmere is naturally white. So it takes more dying to convert it inot a darker shade. Experienced producers can minimize but not eliminate the difference in "handle" between lights and darks.
How long will a cashmere sweater last? That depends on he quality and how it is worn. Generally speaking more expensive sweaters will last longer than less expensive sweaters. Under normal wear circumstances a well-made cashmere sweater should last many years.
Monday, March 9, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your exclusive online mens fashion store. Today we are going to talk about silk.
Extracted from "The Story of Silk," Martha Stewart Living, June, 1999
Considered the ideal fabric, silk is strong, lightweight, resists soiling (because of the smoothness of its fibers) and is rarely suceptible to mildew. It can absorb a considerable amount of water without feeling wet to the touch and it has a unique ability to absorb dye while retaining an illuminating luster.
According to Confucius, five thousand years ago the Chinese Empress Xi Ling was having tea under a mulberry tree when a silkworm cocoon fell into her cup. As she fished it out, she noticed that it had begun to dissolve into a mesh of fine thread, marking the discovery of the fiber that would make China one of the greatest powers on earth.
Sericulture - the farming of silkworms and the production of silk - is a complex process, and its secrets once were jealously guarded by China's royal household. So coddled were silkworms that silk farmers were obliged by law to whisper within earshot of the worms and to refrain from any mention of death. China's emperors were fanatical in their control: Border guards checked departing travelers for silkworms or eggs, and smuggelers were executed on the spot. No wonder since a nine ounce length of purple silk in the Middle Eastern city of Constantinople could cost the equivalent of $23,000.00!
The farming of silk has changed little through the millennia. Silkworm larvae are reared on bamboo trays and fed continuously with mulberry leaves harvested by hand. After six weeks, the caterpillars form their silk cocoons. Each cocoon, smaller than your thumb, is made of ONE silk fiber roughly three thousand feet in length.
It takes about 12 pounds of cocoons to produce one pound of silk. The cocoons must be softened in hot water and the silk threads are then reeled out, ready to be processed, dyed, and woven into fabric.
Woven Silk Terminology
Brocade – A rich fabric with a raised, textured pattern - usually a twill weave over a satin background.
China Silk – Inexpensive silk used as apparel lining.
Damask – A rever-sible patterned weave descended from fabrics made in Damascus during the middle ages.
Linen Silk – A blend of linen and silk with a greater tendency to wrinkle but a more massive drape.
Peau de Soie – A soft silk of high quality; reversible, with a dull finish on one face.
Silk Satin – A dense floating weave with a lustrous face and dull back. Expensive because of the high quality of silk fiber needed.
Taffeta – A faintly ribbed plain weave with a stiffness that contributes shape and body.
Extracted from "The Story of Silk," Martha Stewart Living, June, 1999
Considered the ideal fabric, silk is strong, lightweight, resists soiling (because of the smoothness of its fibers) and is rarely suceptible to mildew. It can absorb a considerable amount of water without feeling wet to the touch and it has a unique ability to absorb dye while retaining an illuminating luster.
According to Confucius, five thousand years ago the Chinese Empress Xi Ling was having tea under a mulberry tree when a silkworm cocoon fell into her cup. As she fished it out, she noticed that it had begun to dissolve into a mesh of fine thread, marking the discovery of the fiber that would make China one of the greatest powers on earth.
Sericulture - the farming of silkworms and the production of silk - is a complex process, and its secrets once were jealously guarded by China's royal household. So coddled were silkworms that silk farmers were obliged by law to whisper within earshot of the worms and to refrain from any mention of death. China's emperors were fanatical in their control: Border guards checked departing travelers for silkworms or eggs, and smuggelers were executed on the spot. No wonder since a nine ounce length of purple silk in the Middle Eastern city of Constantinople could cost the equivalent of $23,000.00!
The farming of silk has changed little through the millennia. Silkworm larvae are reared on bamboo trays and fed continuously with mulberry leaves harvested by hand. After six weeks, the caterpillars form their silk cocoons. Each cocoon, smaller than your thumb, is made of ONE silk fiber roughly three thousand feet in length.
It takes about 12 pounds of cocoons to produce one pound of silk. The cocoons must be softened in hot water and the silk threads are then reeled out, ready to be processed, dyed, and woven into fabric.
Woven Silk Terminology
Brocade – A rich fabric with a raised, textured pattern - usually a twill weave over a satin background.
China Silk – Inexpensive silk used as apparel lining.
Damask – A rever-sible patterned weave descended from fabrics made in Damascus during the middle ages.
Linen Silk – A blend of linen and silk with a greater tendency to wrinkle but a more massive drape.
Peau de Soie – A soft silk of high quality; reversible, with a dull finish on one face.
Silk Satin – A dense floating weave with a lustrous face and dull back. Expensive because of the high quality of silk fiber needed.
Taffeta – A faintly ribbed plain weave with a stiffness that contributes shape and body.
Sunday, March 8, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS has an assortment of Pocket Squares. Today we will teach how to fold the pocket square.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS also carry beautiful ascots. Today we are going to teach you how to tie an Ascot.
First place the ascot loosely around your neck.
Then take hold of the right end and place it over the left end.
Pull the right end up and through the loop thus formed underneath.
Place what started out as the right end of the ascot precisely over what started out as the left end and is now underneath.
Stuff the ascot under the shirt leaving the top button undone. Adjust both ends of the ascot.
First place the ascot loosely around your neck.
Then take hold of the right end and place it over the left end.
Pull the right end up and through the loop thus formed underneath.
Place what started out as the right end of the ascot precisely over what started out as the left end and is now underneath.
Stuff the ascot under the shirt leaving the top button undone. Adjust both ends of the ascot.
Friday, March 6, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS has all of the new bright,colorful, spring ties. Today we are going to teach you how to tie a Small knot.
Twist the broad end so that the seam is showing. Then cross over the broad end with the narrow end.
Pass the broader end over the narrow end.
Pass the broad end underneath the half-formed knot.
Then pull the whole of the broad end through to the front.
Pass the broad end of the necktie under the top layer of the knot, and pull the broad end through.
The Small Knot.
Twist the broad end so that the seam is showing. Then cross over the broad end with the narrow end.
Pass the broader end over the narrow end.
Pass the broad end underneath the half-formed knot.
Then pull the whole of the broad end through to the front.
Pass the broad end of the necktie under the top layer of the knot, and pull the broad end through.
The Small Knot.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS has all of the classy colorful silk ties. Today we are going to teach you how to tie a Prince Albert knot.
Start by passing the broad end to the left over the narrower end. Then back under the narrow end.
Pass the broad end back over the narrow end.
Repeat the first step by passing the broad end back under.
Repeat the second step by passing the broad end back over the narrow end.
Pass the broad end behind the knot and through the loop around your neck.
Pull the broad end underneath the outer layer of the knot.
When completed the Prince Albert forms an elongated knot.
Start by passing the broad end to the left over the narrower end. Then back under the narrow end.
Pass the broad end back over the narrow end.
Repeat the first step by passing the broad end back under.
Repeat the second step by passing the broad end back over the narrow end.
Pass the broad end behind the knot and through the loop around your neck.
Pull the broad end underneath the outer layer of the knot.
When completed the Prince Albert forms an elongated knot.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS has the latest, stylish, hottest pleated ties at a very reasonable price. Today we are going to teach you how to tie a Windsor knot.
Start with the broad end hanging further down on the right. Pass the broad end over the narrow end.
Pull the broad end underneath then over the loop around you neck.
Pass the broader end under the narrow end.
Pull the broad end over then underneath the outer layer of the loop around your neck.
Now take the broad end and pass it around the knot.
Pass the broad end up from below and behind the knot and through the loop around your neck.
Pull the broad end underneath the outer layer of the knot.
Carefully adjust the knot, holding it gently and pulling the narrower end.
The Full Windsor
Start with the broad end hanging further down on the right. Pass the broad end over the narrow end.
Pull the broad end underneath then over the loop around you neck.
Pass the broader end under the narrow end.
Pull the broad end over then underneath the outer layer of the loop around your neck.
Now take the broad end and pass it around the knot.
Pass the broad end up from below and behind the knot and through the loop around your neck.
Pull the broad end underneath the outer layer of the knot.
Carefully adjust the knot, holding it gently and pulling the narrower end.
The Full Windsor
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS carry the most elegant ties. Today we are going to teach you how to tie a Half Windsor knot.
Start with the broad end hanging further down on the right. Pass the broad end over the narrower end.
Pass the broader end under the narrow end.
Then pull the broad end over the knot and down toward your body through the loop that has been formed.
Now take the broad end and pass it around the half knot.
Pass the broad end up from below and behind the knot and through the loop around your neck.
Pull the broad end underneath the outer layer of the knot.
Carefully adjust the knot, holding it gently and pulling the narrower end.
The broader end of the necktie should now hang down further than the narrow end.
Start with the broad end hanging further down on the right. Pass the broad end over the narrower end.
Pass the broader end under the narrow end.
Then pull the broad end over the knot and down toward your body through the loop that has been formed.
Now take the broad end and pass it around the half knot.
Pass the broad end up from below and behind the knot and through the loop around your neck.
Pull the broad end underneath the outer layer of the knot.
Carefully adjust the knot, holding it gently and pulling the narrower end.
The broader end of the necktie should now hang down further than the narrow end.
Monday, March 2, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS is your ideal online mens fashion store. They specialize in the latest, greatest, stylilish mens fashions. Their tie selection is fabulous. Today we will teach you how to tie a Four-in-Hand knot.
Place the necktie around your neck with the broader end on your right. It must hang lower down than the narrower end.
Take the broad move it left and across the narrow end, holding the narrow end in your left hand. Now pass the broad end around the narrow end.
Pass the broad end around the narrow end so that it is lying on the left again. The Shape of the knot is beginning to materialize.
Pass the broad end underneath the half-formed knot. Then pull the whole of the broad end through to the front.
Pass the broad end of the necktie between the layer of the knot which is now on top and the layer directly underneath it, and pull the broad end through.
Hold the narrow end of the tie firmly and slowly tighten the knot. Do not forget to button your shirt.
GO TO WWW.WWAMMFASHIONS.BIZ
Place the necktie around your neck with the broader end on your right. It must hang lower down than the narrower end.
Take the broad move it left and across the narrow end, holding the narrow end in your left hand. Now pass the broad end around the narrow end.
Pass the broad end around the narrow end so that it is lying on the left again. The Shape of the knot is beginning to materialize.
Pass the broad end underneath the half-formed knot. Then pull the whole of the broad end through to the front.
Pass the broad end of the necktie between the layer of the knot which is now on top and the layer directly underneath it, and pull the broad end through.
Hold the narrow end of the tie firmly and slowly tighten the knot. Do not forget to button your shirt.
GO TO WWW.WWAMMFASHIONS.BIZ
Sunday, March 1, 2009
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS
WWAMM FASHIONS-MENS SUITS HAS A WONDERFUL ASSORTMENT OF NECK TIES. TODAY WE ARE GOING TO SHOW YOU HOW TO TIE A CROSS KNOT.
Cross Knot – Start with the broad end hanging further down on the right. Pass the broad end over the narrower end.
Pass the broad end under the narrow end.
Pull the broad end over then underneath the outer layer of the loop around your neck.
Now take the broad end and pass it right around the knot.
Pass the broad end up from below and behind the knot and through the loop around your neck.
The knot begins to take its shape.
Pull the broad end underneath the outer layer of the knot.
Carefully adjust the knot, holding it gently and pulling the narrower end.
Cross Knot – Start with the broad end hanging further down on the right. Pass the broad end over the narrower end.
Pass the broad end under the narrow end.
Pull the broad end over then underneath the outer layer of the loop around your neck.
Now take the broad end and pass it right around the knot.
Pass the broad end up from below and behind the knot and through the loop around your neck.
The knot begins to take its shape.
Pull the broad end underneath the outer layer of the knot.
Carefully adjust the knot, holding it gently and pulling the narrower end.
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